Cycling NZ26 - Day 23 - Away With The Fairies!

Whataday!  Whataday! The antithesis of yesterday’s ride!

I kinda knew that South Island was going to be kind to me. Taking that 50 mile ferry ride seems to have put me in a different country. The roads are better, the scenery is kinder. The weather is so much better. And the people - well they’re just as friendly as their cousins on the other island. 

I knew today was gonna be good day. The quiet before the storm which arrives tomorrow evening and the main reason that I’m planning to stay here in Kaicoura for the next 3 nights. I knew because of all the weather searches that whilst I possibly could cycle into the Molesworth yesterday and today for sure there was no way I was getting out alive. The forecast for snow and freezing conditions has only worsened. However what I expected today was a cloudy day with a gentle tailwind to usher me into Kaicoura. 

What a beautiful day. Started last night when I looked out of my motel room late to see the stars in the sky with a piece of the moon nestled in a small blanket of cloud. Like this

In

I look up to see the constellation of Orion which is normally low in the south in winter in the UK. Well last night it was magnificently high in the northern night sky. Upside down. (Look close at tge picture. Enlarge it. Go on!). An effect to be expected now that I am on the other side of the planet. The moon too reversed in all of its glory gliding the wrong way across the sky. 

I awoke again at 0430 with the fecking zombies tricking water from a vine leaf down my spine. An effective method to get anyone out of bed. This dam cold is on its very last legs but is not departing without a fight. Eating the remains of the cheese scone from last nights self serve roadside cafe before whipping my oats out and cooking some porridge on the 1950s style radiant electric ring cooker like the one we had at home in the 1960’s. This one though is brand new. 

There’s nothing to hang around for so I’m away before 9. The roads are quiet with some heavy truck traffic but significantly more holiday stuff now I guess that the weekend has arrived. Its sunny. The sky is that shade of blue that everyone likes to have on sunny days and there is a tail wind. I have approx 53 miles to do today along the Pacific coastline and am so looking forward to it. 

My route continues to follow in a roundabout way the only north south train line in the whole of this country. A line that has the capacity to carry multiple trains per hour but which perhaps suffers just one combined goods and passengers train per day. Huge sweeping panoramas of mountains oceans roads and rail are laid out in spectacular fashion in front of me. 

As when cycling most days I slip into a trance. I’m away with the fairies deep in thought about a multitude of things leaving Brian’s second in command Mavis in charge of the driving. 

Somehow all of the trucks and camper vans manage to avoid her wanderings. But that meant nothing to me. For me and Brian have jetted off to some imaginary place where my legs don’t hurt.  We are deep in conversation with the locals. So thats the truck and van drivers who have similarly ejected their Brians whilst driving on the same road.  I always fail to remember names but with Brian’s help I’m able to conjure up images as though in a film editing suite - of the days and weeks just passed. 

PAAARP!  STOP WAYNE!  LOOK UP YOU IDIOT!). I don’t know what it was that broke me out of the trance but going by the skid mark in the road I recon Mavis may have wandered a bit into oncoming traffic and accidentally pulled on the bomb bay door release lever and ejected an ill prepared Mr Softie sans his paper parachute into the road. 😬🫣. Poor thing. 

I am agog with the beauty of this place. A silky snooth ribbon of tarmac that has been ever so gently laid along the ocean’s edge. A Pacific absolutely shining iridescent turquoise hues amidst the deep unfathomable blues. Where the mountains, verdantly splendiferously wrapped in a cloak of sherwood green, meet the sea. And just the one railway who’s polished lines reflect laser sunbeams into my naked eyes. I crease my face to lower the brightness and magnify the clarity of this beautiful land. Like this..

Look!  LOOK!  You have been gifted this day, Wayne. Slow down and make some good use of your time on this planet today. This is not a race to the end. Take your time old man and sink your eyes deep into the beauty of it all. The land, the mountains, the native forests that cling for life to their sides. The deep sea and pausing to view the sea lion colony, watching the young ones frolic in their personal rock pools. Smell the sweetness of the sea breeze as it gently wafts you along. For this will be nothing but a memory in a.., oh it already is. 😕

That elusive train still eludes me.  The other day with a shrill whistle she monetarily appeared in a gap in the trees, lifted her skirt and flashed her knickers then quickly giggled away into the bushes before I could get my polaroid out. 

Today she waited until I was on the hill climb high above her before she flashed her bits at me from the protection of her forest way down low with a diesely RAH! RAH! sound as though laughing at my inability to get the old girl.  Perhaps one day. 

I have no regrets today. Yes the Molesworth would have been quite a thing to do.  However, I recon its steely grey gravelly lumpiness just would never compete with what has been given to me today. I’m the only tour cyclist here. And I am a happy man for that 😁🙏

There’s not much for Garmin to do today. Its just the one road and I think he’s getting a bit bored. I’m about 8 miles out of town and he starts shouting. THIS WAY BOSS THIS WAY!  Okay okay I’ll let you have your fun with me. 

Of course the back road into town is a bloody gravel mess. Thank you ma boy. I needed this after 50 miles cycling in the hills.  I continue to follow his lead and find myself back in another section of the Whale trail which is waiting patiently here to be joined with the other end some 50 miles away back down the coast. 

I see someone in the distance. A blonde haired man with aviator sunglasses and a moustache. Legs shoulder width apart and folded arms. He’s looking directly at me. 

Suddenly Garmin shouts HERE BOSS HERE!  

There’s a small squirrely track that abruptly rushes off into the bushes

I come to a sudden stop only moments away from the man. I look at him and say. 

The - sat - nav - wants - me - to - go - here..

I point to my left…

This way…

Down THIS track…

Garmin is pulling on my arm with big wide open eyes and a huge smile on his face..

The man does not move nor utter a word. He just looks at the fat man who is having a ‘moment’ with his sat nav.  I say…

Yes, this way..

I guess that this is the way into town..

The best way so I am told…

Nothing from the man. He remains unchanged with a 1000 ft stare. 

So, I have to go now..

This way.. I glance to my left…

Down. This. Track. 

Of course I’m waiting for him to do something like suck between his teeth and perhaps tell me that there may be another way. But no. Nothing..,

So with a weak goodbye I scoot away. Down the track. Within moments I wish that I hadn’t cos it took me to the place where they get their pudding rice from with which to build all other cycling tracks in this country. And my bike sinks in. It also puts me on the wrong side of the tracks from my digs which needs a big detour.  Garmin is smug in a job well done kinda way at the end of the day. Thank you Crap Nav …

Rain is forecast for tomorrow so I’m gonna have a few days off here. There’s two and a bit days cycling into Christchurch and 9 days before my flight back to Auckland so loads of time to take care of myself. 

I’m in the Lazy Shag Hostel tonight. Yeah. Right. 

Not with my knees…

Ciao for now